Hello everyone,
So... what has happened since our big engagement news??
Well, the news keeps coming- I just recently found out my sister is pregnant with her first baby!! So we are now extra excited about coming home!
We have been very busy lately, making our way from the Usambara mountains in Tanzania to our current home in Mombasa, Kenya. We had a great time in the mountains, spending our days hiking through picturesque villages and farmlands and having lunch at an AMAZING farm that served us homemade everything! Even homemade cheese; which was such a treat after months and months without any decent dairy products!
We then travelled with a wonderful Italian couple to a beach resort called Peponi just outside of Pangani. We lived in a cute little caravan on the beach for a few days and enjoyed a some more tanning time. Then we made our way to Tanga, a cute little town on the coast where we enjoyed VERY cheap accomodation above a bar (which was surprisingly not noisy). Did some good runs in Tanga and mostly just relaxed before our big trip to Kenya.
We had a relatively stress-free trip across the border into Mombasa and found a great hotel with a beautiful courtyard. Unfortunately the weather has been terrible here, so we have spent many a days in our room catching up on movies! We did have one annoying encounter when we were randomly walking on a beach, trying to do our own tour and got busted for being in a restricted port. We then had to pay a fine of 200 shillings. I got quite irate with the officer with a big gun but luckily he was in a good mood and didn't arrest me or anything!
Tomorrow we are off to Nairobi to spend our last few days doing track workouts with Darl's Kenyan friend and exploring the biggest, baddest city in Kenya (or so the rumour goes). I just hope it is not as bad as Dakar, Senegal or we won't be going out much!
See you all at home in less than a week!!
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
The Engagement
So, most of you facebook users have already heard our big news.... wait forit.... we are engaged!!!
Yes, Darl proposed a few days ago and we have never been happier! (or more excited to get home!)
It was a perfect evening... Darl and I had just woke up from a long nap in our cosy cabin with a fireplace in the cool Usambara Mountains in Lushoto, TZ. He was holding the ring so tight in his hand that his palms were sweating and he told me he had something to give me. After some coaxing and him telling me he was nervous, he handed it over and asked me to marry him!!
The ring is gourgeous!! It is made of tanzanite, a blue gem that is mined here in Tanzania so I will always have a piece of Africa!
After we told the guesthouse owners theybought us drinks in their cute bar and made us listen to leanord cohen.
Good times!!
Yes, Darl proposed a few days ago and we have never been happier! (or more excited to get home!)
It was a perfect evening... Darl and I had just woke up from a long nap in our cosy cabin with a fireplace in the cool Usambara Mountains in Lushoto, TZ. He was holding the ring so tight in his hand that his palms were sweating and he told me he had something to give me. After some coaxing and him telling me he was nervous, he handed it over and asked me to marry him!!
The ring is gourgeous!! It is made of tanzanite, a blue gem that is mined here in Tanzania so I will always have a piece of Africa!
After we told the guesthouse owners theybought us drinks in their cute bar and made us listen to leanord cohen.
Good times!!
News from Lushoto Tanzania
Hey Everyone
Just thought I would spread some great news, as of the 29th of July Krystal and I are now engaged.
I myself have been planning this for over a year, but thought what a great way to get engaged then in Africa towards the end of the trip. This way if Krystal could stand to be with me after 7 months of being glued to the hip then I would know that nothing could ever stand in our way.
The plan was to initially propose at the top of Kilimanjaro, there were also thoughts of proposing at the finish line at Comrades but as a friend advised me. After 89km of torturous punishment you might not always see the best in the other person. So the plan was Kili and after 4 grueling days of treking I was feeling like a million bucks. This was met with devastation as the night of the final trek to the top I was a mere 40mins from proposing when and with no indication my eyes rolled into the back of my head as I sloped to the ground. I tried to continue but after another 5mins of hiking I was forced to return to the base camp.
Just a few days later we arrived in Lushoto and got a beautiful large cabin room with a fire place. We actually planned on a run but fell asleep and when we awoke through my nervousness and studdering I managed to get the words out to marry me.
I've never been happier in my life.
Just thought I would spread some great news, as of the 29th of July Krystal and I are now engaged.
I myself have been planning this for over a year, but thought what a great way to get engaged then in Africa towards the end of the trip. This way if Krystal could stand to be with me after 7 months of being glued to the hip then I would know that nothing could ever stand in our way.
The plan was to initially propose at the top of Kilimanjaro, there were also thoughts of proposing at the finish line at Comrades but as a friend advised me. After 89km of torturous punishment you might not always see the best in the other person. So the plan was Kili and after 4 grueling days of treking I was feeling like a million bucks. This was met with devastation as the night of the final trek to the top I was a mere 40mins from proposing when and with no indication my eyes rolled into the back of my head as I sloped to the ground. I tried to continue but after another 5mins of hiking I was forced to return to the base camp.
Just a few days later we arrived in Lushoto and got a beautiful large cabin room with a fire place. We actually planned on a run but fell asleep and when we awoke through my nervousness and studdering I managed to get the words out to marry me.
I've never been happier in my life.
Saturday, July 24, 2010
Clean at Last!
We made it!!
We just returned to Moshi after completing a 6 day trek to the top of Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest free-standing mountain in the world! 5895m to be exact.
We set off with high spirits and clean clothes. The first day was easy peasy climbing through beautiful rainforest, that kind of resembled a forest in Vancouver (except for the palm trees) and ended at 3000m above sea level. Our team consisted of 6 porters, 1 guide, 1 assistant guide, waiter, a cook and an assistant cook. They were all wonderful at keeping us as comfortable as possible considering the circumstances. The food was great- we had amazing breakfasts every day consisting of porridge, tea and milo, omelettes, toast and peanut butter, and Darl got weiners. Lunches were also great- bagged for the hike and usually peanut butter, crap loads of margarine, and green pepper. Yes, this may sound gross but actually quite satisfying when you have a mountain appetite! Some of the other meals were delicious home made soups, coconut rice pilaf, pasta and veggies, and crepes with jam for dessert. Ooh and we also got tea time every afternoon with popcorn, peanuts and cookies! The best part was all the fresh fruit! To stay hydrated so we could ensure our success with the summit, we had to drink 4 L of fluids every day.
Day 2 we ascended above the clouds to Sheera base camp. Here we had views of Kili and Mt Meru and we were at an altitude of 3600m. By the end of the day, we left the rainforest and began walking in a whole new world. We were then in "Moor Land"- where the trees were covered in a moss-like substance and they looked like they were shedding. The vegetation was unlike anything we had ever seen before. Day 3 we reached 4600m before descending to 3950m so we could begin to get used to the air up high. I started to feel pretty dizzy on the way up and decided to begin altitude meds. Darl was still feeling great though. The scenery changed once again to rocks. There were sharp, thin rocks that looked like litter heaps everywhere and the sun and wind were extremely harsh. By day 4 I was feeling pretty crappy, after a cold night with no sleep. But we had to suck it up because that night we would begin our serious leg of the journey up to the summit.
At 11:30pm we were up, had drank our tea shivering in the tent, put on all the clothes we owned, and headed up towering Kili with our trusty guides Mr. Temo and Mr. Moshi. Each step felt increasingly more difficult as our fatigue and lack of oxygen took effect. I was particularly hurting early on, and Darl had to help me up even simple rocks as I bitched and whined that I didn't care about the top anymore. I had nausea, felt like I might crap my pants, and the cold was still cutting through my millions of layers. Darl, the eternal optimist, continued to feel great as we stumbled through the dark, only the moonlight to show us the way.
With about 45 minutes and 200m elevation to go, things went all wrong for poor Darl. All of a sudden, after 4 days of Darl feeling solid and strong, without any ill effects from the height, he became extremely disoriented. He popped a diamox (altitude med) with hopes that it would treat how he was feeling and we carried on. At this point, all of my self-pitying went away and all my attention was on my honey. When Darl's eyes started rolling into the back of his head, we knew things were getting serious and his time was up. After some persuading, he agreed to head down before things got any worse and Mr. Moshi helped him, rather aggressively, back to base camp. Darl felt like a dog on a leash, half conscious, as Moshi pulled him along. We said our I love you's and I continued up with Mr. Temo. I reached the Uhuru Peak, 5895m, at 5:45am. It was pitch black, -20 degrees plus wind chill, and I was ready to go to bed! I got a quick picture beside the sign and we bolted back down, watching the sunrise as we went. It wasn't nearly the climax I hoped for without my partner beside me :(
The next two days we motored down the trails back to the park gate and raced to our hotel to get a much deserved shower after 6 days of extreme filth!
I think I am sick of extreme activity for the next little while... All I can look forward to now is some baking at home and watching tv! Yay, homeward bound in less than a month!!
We just returned to Moshi after completing a 6 day trek to the top of Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest free-standing mountain in the world! 5895m to be exact.
We set off with high spirits and clean clothes. The first day was easy peasy climbing through beautiful rainforest, that kind of resembled a forest in Vancouver (except for the palm trees) and ended at 3000m above sea level. Our team consisted of 6 porters, 1 guide, 1 assistant guide, waiter, a cook and an assistant cook. They were all wonderful at keeping us as comfortable as possible considering the circumstances. The food was great- we had amazing breakfasts every day consisting of porridge, tea and milo, omelettes, toast and peanut butter, and Darl got weiners. Lunches were also great- bagged for the hike and usually peanut butter, crap loads of margarine, and green pepper. Yes, this may sound gross but actually quite satisfying when you have a mountain appetite! Some of the other meals were delicious home made soups, coconut rice pilaf, pasta and veggies, and crepes with jam for dessert. Ooh and we also got tea time every afternoon with popcorn, peanuts and cookies! The best part was all the fresh fruit! To stay hydrated so we could ensure our success with the summit, we had to drink 4 L of fluids every day.
Day 2 we ascended above the clouds to Sheera base camp. Here we had views of Kili and Mt Meru and we were at an altitude of 3600m. By the end of the day, we left the rainforest and began walking in a whole new world. We were then in "Moor Land"- where the trees were covered in a moss-like substance and they looked like they were shedding. The vegetation was unlike anything we had ever seen before. Day 3 we reached 4600m before descending to 3950m so we could begin to get used to the air up high. I started to feel pretty dizzy on the way up and decided to begin altitude meds. Darl was still feeling great though. The scenery changed once again to rocks. There were sharp, thin rocks that looked like litter heaps everywhere and the sun and wind were extremely harsh. By day 4 I was feeling pretty crappy, after a cold night with no sleep. But we had to suck it up because that night we would begin our serious leg of the journey up to the summit.
At 11:30pm we were up, had drank our tea shivering in the tent, put on all the clothes we owned, and headed up towering Kili with our trusty guides Mr. Temo and Mr. Moshi. Each step felt increasingly more difficult as our fatigue and lack of oxygen took effect. I was particularly hurting early on, and Darl had to help me up even simple rocks as I bitched and whined that I didn't care about the top anymore. I had nausea, felt like I might crap my pants, and the cold was still cutting through my millions of layers. Darl, the eternal optimist, continued to feel great as we stumbled through the dark, only the moonlight to show us the way.
With about 45 minutes and 200m elevation to go, things went all wrong for poor Darl. All of a sudden, after 4 days of Darl feeling solid and strong, without any ill effects from the height, he became extremely disoriented. He popped a diamox (altitude med) with hopes that it would treat how he was feeling and we carried on. At this point, all of my self-pitying went away and all my attention was on my honey. When Darl's eyes started rolling into the back of his head, we knew things were getting serious and his time was up. After some persuading, he agreed to head down before things got any worse and Mr. Moshi helped him, rather aggressively, back to base camp. Darl felt like a dog on a leash, half conscious, as Moshi pulled him along. We said our I love you's and I continued up with Mr. Temo. I reached the Uhuru Peak, 5895m, at 5:45am. It was pitch black, -20 degrees plus wind chill, and I was ready to go to bed! I got a quick picture beside the sign and we bolted back down, watching the sunrise as we went. It wasn't nearly the climax I hoped for without my partner beside me :(
The next two days we motored down the trails back to the park gate and raced to our hotel to get a much deserved shower after 6 days of extreme filth!
I think I am sick of extreme activity for the next little while... All I can look forward to now is some baking at home and watching tv! Yay, homeward bound in less than a month!!
Thursday, July 15, 2010
Jambo!!
Jambo from Dar!!!
We are now getting ready to leave the capital of Tanzania after chilling here for a week.
My parents arrived at the end of June and we had such a great visit with them!! They were much more hard core than we ever imagined, right off the bat we went for a walk in the downtown streets of Dar Es Salam and my mom and I drank tea with a street vendor. He even gave it to us for free! And everyone here called my mom "Mama" and Dad "Papa''. It was great! They were treated with much respect and kindness everywhere we went (well most places!). We also went to a real African market and Dad got to practice his bargaining skills African style! Unfortunately Dad kept referring to the Tanzanian Schillings as "play money" and seemed to think that any price asked for was reasonable. So Darl and I had to suck it up and give up on our fine-tuned skills of getting a deal.
After Dar we took a 10 hour bus ride to Arusha in search of a safari tour in the Serengeti. We lucked out and found a great company quickly and were off the next day for three nights, four days of camping in the jungle! We even had an elephant wander onto our campsite one night and every night we could hear scary sounds from wort hogs, hyenas, and other mysterious creatures. Darl was frightened but I held him closely!
Our tour guide was great and he helped us to spot cheetas, lions, baby lions, millions of wildebeests migrating, millions of zebras running to a water hole, hippos galore, giraffes, amazing birds, monkeys and the list could go on forever!
After my mom finished hugging our guide and cook a million times, we carried on with our adventure and travelled to exotic Zanzibar island for some R and R. Here we stayed in a peaceful village on the beach called Jambiani and spent our days by the pool, walking on the beach, and eating seafood. Wine was difficult to find, but we did get creative, we even snuck booze in a water bottle into one strictly no alcohol allowed restaurant! Dad and Darl had some good bonding time over gin and juice and Darl almost had my Dad hugging him (but not quite). hehe. We also went snorkelling and Dad tried fishing using a string and stick on a home-made sail boat made from rice sacks and mango trees. Good times enjoyed by all as we watched mom try to get back on the sail boat after snorkelling! She resembled humpty dumpty!
Now since my parents left, we have been trying to get used to life without them again. We have been chilling in the city, organizing our next trek up Kiliminjaro, and finding interesting street food once again. We have been staying at a great Indian run guesthouse downtown and enjoyed the final world cup match with tonnes of people from around the world. Although we were cheering for Netherlands, we still enjoyed ourselves!!
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Flesh wounds and broken spirits
Well, we thought the worst of our trip was over until this week.
After our ordeal getting to Beira and then Pemba, we relaxed for a couple days before the next leg of the journey to Mocimboa da Praia. We thought it would be somewhat straight forward getting to the border of Tanzania, since it was only about 400km away. So, we got up bright and early for our bus for 5am, actually got on on time for once, but then it was all down hill from there. The bus, was PACKED with people, chickens, luggage, fruit, etc. and we were the last ones on, so had to stand. Which at first was annoying but then we just accepted it. THEN the bus broke down. Then they got it going, and it broke down again. And again. And again. 5 hours later we made it 100km. And so we waited some more on the side of the road. Luckily we made some very nice friends on the bus and practiced our portugese to distract ourselves. We finally arrived at our destination 12 hours later. We only went 300km. THEN we got harrased like crazy by potential drivers to the border for the next day. We agreed to go with one guy and went to our guesthouse to relax.
Unfortunately our guesthouse was extremely ghetto, so we were stuck with ice cold dirty water bucket showers and no electricity. We still managed to do a little run to calm ourselves and went to bed early. Then at midnight, a drunk guy woke us up knocking on our door thinking it was the washroom. Then at 1am rats invaded our bathroom and ate our soap and crapped everywhere. Then at 2:30am our driver began knocking on our door saying the transport was leaving earlier than expected and we should get going right away. We were so exhausted at this point we just told him to go away and come back at the originally planned time of 4am. He came back at 3:15am and then left town. We got ready and out the door for 4am but he was gone. And there was no one else to take us to the border. SO, plan B.
We met some guys also going near the border so we hitched a ride in the back of a truck with them. We had a pleasant drive to a town very close to the border called Palma. We thought we were home free! BUT quickly discovered we still had another 45km to the border and no one was coming through town. The locals were particularly weird in this town and spent the whole day staring at us. We asked to take a picture to remember this terrible day, but the elders flat out refused. So we waited some more. Then some locals offered to take us to the border on their motor bikes for a ridiculous some of money. At first we said no but as the day went on we got pretty desperate. By 1pm we finally agreed to go with them.
Well the motor bike journey was the first time on this trip I was really scared for my life. We fell off the bike 4 times in total. One time completely breaking the handle bars so the rest of the trip his stearing was off, making it even more difficult. I burned my leg pretty bad on the exhaust pipe, cut my lip, and scratched my legs on branches along the way. Darl had to ride without any feet bars and hold his backpack on his back while trying to brase himself on the bike for the three hour ride. We arrived at the border with oozing flesh wounds, bleeding from the face, and with broken spirits.
We then made it through customs and had to continue on the motor bikes until we got to the rovuma river. Here a bunch of guys stood around attempting to rip us off even more. We finally got across the river on a boat around 6pm. It was pitch black, we were walking through mud up to our ankles, with our shoes in hand and backpacks on, making our way through the shallow waters with a group of about 15 other african guys. The moon was shining and we just looked at each other and laughed. We made it to the next pick up truck and then to the Tanzanian town of Mtwara by 8pm.
Thank god for Mtwara. This town is a gem. Chilindima Guesthouse is amazing. We wish we could stay here longer but my parents are coming in 2 days!! So, one day to rest and eat some proper food for the first time in days and then on the road again. We hope the bus to Dar Es Salam isn't too painful tomorrow!
After our ordeal getting to Beira and then Pemba, we relaxed for a couple days before the next leg of the journey to Mocimboa da Praia. We thought it would be somewhat straight forward getting to the border of Tanzania, since it was only about 400km away. So, we got up bright and early for our bus for 5am, actually got on on time for once, but then it was all down hill from there. The bus, was PACKED with people, chickens, luggage, fruit, etc. and we were the last ones on, so had to stand. Which at first was annoying but then we just accepted it. THEN the bus broke down. Then they got it going, and it broke down again. And again. And again. 5 hours later we made it 100km. And so we waited some more on the side of the road. Luckily we made some very nice friends on the bus and practiced our portugese to distract ourselves. We finally arrived at our destination 12 hours later. We only went 300km. THEN we got harrased like crazy by potential drivers to the border for the next day. We agreed to go with one guy and went to our guesthouse to relax.
Unfortunately our guesthouse was extremely ghetto, so we were stuck with ice cold dirty water bucket showers and no electricity. We still managed to do a little run to calm ourselves and went to bed early. Then at midnight, a drunk guy woke us up knocking on our door thinking it was the washroom. Then at 1am rats invaded our bathroom and ate our soap and crapped everywhere. Then at 2:30am our driver began knocking on our door saying the transport was leaving earlier than expected and we should get going right away. We were so exhausted at this point we just told him to go away and come back at the originally planned time of 4am. He came back at 3:15am and then left town. We got ready and out the door for 4am but he was gone. And there was no one else to take us to the border. SO, plan B.
We met some guys also going near the border so we hitched a ride in the back of a truck with them. We had a pleasant drive to a town very close to the border called Palma. We thought we were home free! BUT quickly discovered we still had another 45km to the border and no one was coming through town. The locals were particularly weird in this town and spent the whole day staring at us. We asked to take a picture to remember this terrible day, but the elders flat out refused. So we waited some more. Then some locals offered to take us to the border on their motor bikes for a ridiculous some of money. At first we said no but as the day went on we got pretty desperate. By 1pm we finally agreed to go with them.
Well the motor bike journey was the first time on this trip I was really scared for my life. We fell off the bike 4 times in total. One time completely breaking the handle bars so the rest of the trip his stearing was off, making it even more difficult. I burned my leg pretty bad on the exhaust pipe, cut my lip, and scratched my legs on branches along the way. Darl had to ride without any feet bars and hold his backpack on his back while trying to brase himself on the bike for the three hour ride. We arrived at the border with oozing flesh wounds, bleeding from the face, and with broken spirits.
We then made it through customs and had to continue on the motor bikes until we got to the rovuma river. Here a bunch of guys stood around attempting to rip us off even more. We finally got across the river on a boat around 6pm. It was pitch black, we were walking through mud up to our ankles, with our shoes in hand and backpacks on, making our way through the shallow waters with a group of about 15 other african guys. The moon was shining and we just looked at each other and laughed. We made it to the next pick up truck and then to the Tanzanian town of Mtwara by 8pm.
Thank god for Mtwara. This town is a gem. Chilindima Guesthouse is amazing. We wish we could stay here longer but my parents are coming in 2 days!! So, one day to rest and eat some proper food for the first time in days and then on the road again. We hope the bus to Dar Es Salam isn't too painful tomorrow!
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
On the road again!
Well we have made it to the other side of the continent since the beginning of our journey, yet things here in Northern Mozambique are really not that different from elsewhere in Africa! We are back to finding mystery food down back alleys, eating some form of maize meal over a fire, the showers are once again cold, with buckets in case you don't use toilet paper. Darl enjoyed a minibus ride the other day with three chickens pecking at his ankles!
We started our beach time here in Tofo- where we lived in a grass hut and did a marine safari and swam with dolphins, who unfortunately got freaked out when all of us jumped in after them and ate darl's other big toe. Then they swam away. But we still consider that a quality experience!!
We then made it to Vilinculos, which was awesome because the guesthouse called Vilinculos Backpackers was abnormally cheap and the meals were also cheap. But then we discovered the owner abusing his staff verbally and physically and decided it wasn't such a nice place after all! So next we had to get to Beira for a flight to Pemba (so we are on time meeting with my parents) but we showed up at 4am, waited for our driver to wake up for the next three hours, just to be told the bus would not be leaving that day. So... plan B. Find a new way 400km north. So we made friends with some others going the same way and made it to a town where transport often goes by. We met some amazing locals there who insisted on feeding us a bunch of random local dishes including this weird sour maize meal drink, mystery beans, xima with casava leaves and really good nescafe.
While our new friend Frida and I ate away and attempted to communicate in portugese, the guys found us a semi-truck that would drive us to a town closer to our destination. So, 9 of us packed into the cab of the truck and cuddled up for the long drive. We arrived in Inchope around 5pm, at this point we were happy to escape, since our driver stopped several times along the way for beer runs! We were then rushed into a Chapa to Beira. This was only 100km down the road but, as African transport tends to be painfully slow, we arrived 3.5 hours later. Darl survived the pecking from several chickens under his seat and we made friends with these loud drunk guys who were happy to be alive!
Thank god for our hotel, we found a little gem in Beira called Pensao Moderna and got treated like gold! We made our flight the next day and are now enjoying the most beautiful beaches and friendliest people yet in Pemba! Next stop: Mozamboia da Prai, border town with Tanzania!! Yay!!!
We started our beach time here in Tofo- where we lived in a grass hut and did a marine safari and swam with dolphins, who unfortunately got freaked out when all of us jumped in after them and ate darl's other big toe. Then they swam away. But we still consider that a quality experience!!
We then made it to Vilinculos, which was awesome because the guesthouse called Vilinculos Backpackers was abnormally cheap and the meals were also cheap. But then we discovered the owner abusing his staff verbally and physically and decided it wasn't such a nice place after all! So next we had to get to Beira for a flight to Pemba (so we are on time meeting with my parents) but we showed up at 4am, waited for our driver to wake up for the next three hours, just to be told the bus would not be leaving that day. So... plan B. Find a new way 400km north. So we made friends with some others going the same way and made it to a town where transport often goes by. We met some amazing locals there who insisted on feeding us a bunch of random local dishes including this weird sour maize meal drink, mystery beans, xima with casava leaves and really good nescafe.
While our new friend Frida and I ate away and attempted to communicate in portugese, the guys found us a semi-truck that would drive us to a town closer to our destination. So, 9 of us packed into the cab of the truck and cuddled up for the long drive. We arrived in Inchope around 5pm, at this point we were happy to escape, since our driver stopped several times along the way for beer runs! We were then rushed into a Chapa to Beira. This was only 100km down the road but, as African transport tends to be painfully slow, we arrived 3.5 hours later. Darl survived the pecking from several chickens under his seat and we made friends with these loud drunk guys who were happy to be alive!
Thank god for our hotel, we found a little gem in Beira called Pensao Moderna and got treated like gold! We made our flight the next day and are now enjoying the most beautiful beaches and friendliest people yet in Pemba! Next stop: Mozamboia da Prai, border town with Tanzania!! Yay!!!
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