Flesh wounds and broken spirits

Well, we thought the worst of our trip was over until this week.

After our ordeal getting to Beira and then Pemba, we relaxed for a couple days before the next leg of the journey to Mocimboa da Praia. We thought it would be somewhat straight forward getting to the border of Tanzania, since it was only about 400km away. So, we got up bright and early for our bus for 5am, actually got on on time for once, but then it was all down hill from there. The bus, was PACKED with people, chickens, luggage, fruit, etc. and we were the last ones on, so had to stand. Which at first was annoying but then we just accepted it. THEN the bus broke down. Then they got it going, and it broke down again. And again. And again. 5 hours later we made it 100km. And so we waited some more on the side of the road. Luckily we made some very nice friends on the bus and practiced our portugese to distract ourselves. We finally arrived at our destination 12 hours later. We only went 300km. THEN we got harrased like crazy by potential drivers to the border for the next day. We agreed to go with one guy and went to our guesthouse to relax.

Unfortunately our guesthouse was extremely ghetto, so we were stuck with ice cold dirty water bucket showers and no electricity. We still managed to do a little run to calm ourselves and went to bed early. Then at midnight, a drunk guy woke us up knocking on our door thinking it was the washroom. Then at 1am rats invaded our bathroom and ate our soap and crapped everywhere. Then at 2:30am our driver began knocking on our door saying the transport was leaving earlier than expected and we should get going right away. We were so exhausted at this point we just told him to go away and come back at the originally planned time of 4am. He came back at 3:15am and then left town. We got ready and out the door for 4am but he was gone. And there was no one else to take us to the border. SO, plan B.

We met some guys also going near the border so we hitched a ride in the back of a truck with them. We had a pleasant drive to a town very close to the border called Palma. We thought we were home free! BUT quickly discovered we still had another 45km to the border and no one was coming through town. The locals were particularly weird in this town and spent the whole day staring at us. We asked to take a picture to remember this terrible day, but the elders flat out refused. So we waited some more. Then some locals offered to take us to the border on their motor bikes for a ridiculous some of money. At first we said no but as the day went on we got pretty desperate. By 1pm we finally agreed to go with them.

Well the motor bike journey was the first time on this trip I was really scared for my life. We fell off the bike 4 times in total. One time completely breaking the handle bars so the rest of the trip his stearing was off, making it even more difficult. I burned my leg pretty bad on the exhaust pipe, cut my lip, and scratched my legs on branches along the way. Darl had to ride without any feet bars and hold his backpack on his back while trying to brase himself on the bike for the three hour ride. We arrived at the border with oozing flesh wounds, bleeding from the face, and with broken spirits.

We then made it through customs and had to continue on the motor bikes until we got to the rovuma river. Here a bunch of guys stood around attempting to rip us off even more. We finally got across the river on a boat around 6pm. It was pitch black, we were walking through mud up to our ankles, with our shoes in hand and backpacks on, making our way through the shallow waters with a group of about 15 other african guys. The moon was shining and we just looked at each other and laughed. We made it to the next pick up truck and then to the Tanzanian town of Mtwara by 8pm.

Thank god for Mtwara. This town is a gem. Chilindima Guesthouse is amazing. We wish we could stay here longer but my parents are coming in 2 days!! So, one day to rest and eat some proper food for the first time in days and then on the road again. We hope the bus to Dar Es Salam isn't too painful tomorrow!